Sunday, August 22, 2010

Tripping up the mountain

Oh man, do Madeline and I have some stories and pictures to share with you. I write this post with cuts on my hands and aches in my bones because, on Saturday, we ascended the almighty Cerro Pochoco, a wannabe-mountain right outside Santiago. Our reliable adventure guide, Mary Morr from Colorado, had read a couple days before the hike that it'd be pretty simple. 30-minute ascent, 30-minute descent. Pedazo de torta. Piece of cake. I think I'll now walk you through what turned out to be a very taxing (albeit enjoyable) day.

We all met in Las Condes, Madeline's neck-of-the-woods, and then boarded the bus that would drop us off two miles from the trail-head. Sitting at the bus stop was a cute little mutt Allison named "Rudy" (maybe for his persistence and don't-quit attitude?). That dog followed us for hours ... all the way to the top of the mountain (well, almost, but I'll explain later). 

We got a little lost on our search for the trail-head. A windy road took us to a sign that read, "Al Cristo" ("To Jesus"). As we were about to go to Jesus just because it seemed like He might know The Way, some nice Chileans told us we were all wrong, that we had to go back down the road and climb this staircase.
There's Rudy!
And who did we see when we got to the top? Jesus! And others! Turns out going to Jesus would've been the right choice all along ...


Once on this path, the view started getting prettier. We passed by what seemed to be cherry blossom trees, some wildflowers, and a charming antique-y orange car.

And then the view of the mountain we would soon conquer emerged!

When we got to the trail-head, all we saw was a barbed-wire fence. It was here that Mary announced, "Oh yeah, the website did say something about jumping over a fence to get to the trail ..."

Luckily, we found a secret passageway to the trail. And then began the hike. It started out alright, but soon became slippery. No one in our group but Mary had bothered to wear hiking boots. So this is the equation we had to work with:

Little traction from our tennis shoes
an extremely vertical, all-dirt path
nothing to grab onto except these cacti
a buncha giggles, scrapes, and embarrassing skids


But, in the end, the twoish-hour ascent was SO worth it. The view from the top was incredible (minus the smoggy city off in the distance). Mary was bummed because our trusty dog Rudy left us about halfway up the mountain to hike with some more experienced and well-prepared climbers. We did inherit a new furry friend, however. And guess what his name was? Jesus!


Next time our more-well-prepared selves go hiking, we're going to go even higher. To the top of the mountain pictured below.


 
In other news, Madeline and I are stealing away with some of our friends from the program in a couple weeks during Fiestas Patrias. Have we told you? Chile is turning 200 this year! And to celebrate, we're going to take a 13-hour bus ride to the Lake District in southern Chile to hike hike hike. We plan to climb a volcano in Pucón, hit the German settlement of Valdivia, hang around Puerto Montt and Lake Llanquihue, and spend the day of Bicentenario on the island of Chiloé, home to penguins and some meat dish cooked underneath the earth. We're pretty pumped.

Adiós amigos! Ooo, and gracias for being so supportive of our blog! 32 readers is INCREÍBLE!

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Recipes and Roaming

In my last post, I had the pleasure of presenting to you the alfajor. But all I had to show for this Chilean phenomenon was a wrapper (sporting a brand that wasn't particularly good). Well, as I've mentioned before, my family is all about homegrown treats. Sure, my Chilean mamá likes to cook, and she's good at it ... but more uniquely, my host parents pride themselves on making things that can otherwise be bought in the store (i.e. garlic mayonnaise, blackberry marmalade, fruit juice, etc.). I recently announced to Mamá that I'm in love with alfajores. And what did I find greeting me the next day when I returned from school? I'll let your imaginations guess ... and then I'll show you these pictures!

Practicum número uno: How to make an alfajor

Step #1: Smother shortbread/gingerbread-esque cookies in manjar (caramel sauce).

 
Step #2: Dip two-tiered cookies in melted dark chocolate.

Step #3: Place on aluminum sheet, about one inch apart.

Step #4: Swirl white chocolate on top.

Step #5: Make a crafty design with a long needle-looking thing like this.


Step #6: Voila! Enjoy! 
They may look like Little Debbie cupcakes, but don't you be fooled. The alfajor constitutes its own class of mass-produced deliciousness.
---
As Madeline mentioned, we recently added the cutesy little town of Pomaire to our repertoire of excursions outside Santiago. Since Mads and I are considering converting our Chile Cheese Blog into a food blog anyways (what? Chilean food is just so good!), I thought I'd add more food photos to the stash.
There's Mads, about to scarf our empanada full of meat, onions, eggs, and a surprise olive.
This corn pie (pastel de choclo) is not for the faint-stomached. It contained egg, chicken (off-the-bone! Just swimming around inside!), and of course corn. And maybe potatoes?
Yeah, it looks delicious ... but I wouldn't know. I opted for the alfajor.
Believe it or not, Pomaire had more to offer than just food. Like ostrich-sized Disney theme eggs. And pots. And Peru's national drink.






Speaking of Perú ...

Allison, Madeline, and I recently booked tickets to Perú for early October! We plan to fly into Lima, then fly to Cusco, where we'll spend a day before catching a train at the crack-o-dawn for Machu Picchu (pictured below). That night we'll catch an overnight bus to Arequipa (in Puno, situated on Lake Titicaca on the border of Bolivia) and wander around the Islas Flotantes (Floating Islands). We'll then fly back to Lima, do some super-efficient sight-seeing, and depart for Santiago.
Ahhhhh glorious!
Yes, a whole civilization sits atop those big, floating grass pads.
To prepare ourselves, Madeline and I are taking a class at la Católica called "La Lengua y Cultura Quechua" ("The Language and Culture of Quechua"). Besides taking the class because of the indigenous music our professor plays in the background during lectures, we just really wanted to be able to hold our own in conversations with the indigenous population in southern Perú (or Ecuador, Colombia, northern Chile, Paraguay, or northern Argentina, for that matter). We have high hopes for that dialogue ... if we were to go right now, this is what we'd be able to say:

Madeline: Ñoqachu Madeline kani. (Translation: Am I Madeline?)
Abby: Arí, qam Madeline kanki. (Translation: Yes, you are Madeline.)
Madeline: Ñoqachu junt'achini. (Translation: Do I write?)
Abby: Arí, qam junt'achinki. (Translation: Yes, you write!)
Madeline: Añaychayki. Tinkuykama. (Translation: Thank you. See you later.)

Impressive, no? We've learned how to help each other through identity crises, and I can affirm Madeline's literacy. I'd say we're golden.

One last thing before I leave ...

If you'd like to see more photos than what's offered on our blog, you can check out my Picasa Web Albums here. Since Madeline and I are together a lot, many of the pictures will pertain to both of our experiences! Woo hoo!

Hasta luego!

Monday, August 16, 2010

Giant empanadas and three-legged pigs...

Hello! 
I'm about to go to class, but I just wanted to drop in with a quick update...
Today marks the beginning of our third week of classes, and we're officially PAST the one month mark! Crazy that our time here is over 1/5 of the way done. That makes it feel so short. Ab and I have finalized our schedules, and we're taking 3 out of our 4 classes together, and we have the same schedule! It worked out so well! Class is still pretty fun, but we're starting to realize that we actually do have to do the work. Bummer.

Our new goal is to make more Chilean friends. We love hanging out with everyone from our program, but Chileans are just so cool! So we're working on that. It's hard to make friends on campus because we tend to stick together in a pack of gringos, but we have two new places where I think we're going to make some great new amigos

1. We've been going for the past 3 weeks to a little PCA church really near my house, called Cristo Rey. It's so sweet to go there and feel like part of that community a little bit. Also, I've realized that I love hearing scripture and singing worship songs in Spanish, because it makes all the words and their meanings sound totally new. Cool. Sometimes when we're singing a song, Ab and I look at each other and say "what does this meeeean?", but that only happens sometimes, and that's what dictionaries are for, right? So yesterday at church, we met some awesome Chileans, and talked to them for a while, and I think we just might be best friends sometime soon.

Our church... I borrowed this picture from their website...

 2. The American girl who stayed with Abby's host family last semester told her about a college ministry in Santiago called el Oasis. So we went to that last Thursday night, and they fed us dinner, and then it was basically a lot like Young Life club...silly skits, singing, and a talk. I'm excited to go back and get to know some of the people there!

This past Saturday, we went with about 8 girls from our program to visit a little town called Pomaire, about an hour away by bus. Pomaire is known for the impressive amount of ceramics produced there, and it's also known as the home of the world's biggest emanada. So we had to go check it out! We never actually found the giant empanada, but we ate some great normal-sized empanadas for lunch, along with more juice and pastel de choclo, which is a weird but wonderful combination of corn and meat and vegetables...And we definitely saw some ceramics:

  
Here's cute Allison with one of the famous Pomaire ceramic three-legged pigs. If you give one to someone, it's supposed to be lucky:


As you can maybe see from the pictures (ok maybe not), it's been getting warmer! Springtime is just around the corner. And belieeeve me, we'll be ready. It's going to change so much about our daily lives here once it warms up-- no more estufas, no more sleeping in 12.5 layers, no more consuming tea all the time just to be warm. And plus, the smog will probably clear out a good amount when the cold goes away!

Random thought: I've been trying to think of a productive way to spend the two-ish hours every day on the metro/ bus. I thought maybe I could write in my journal? Wrong. If you try to journal on the metro, 1) you will not be able to read a word of it, and 2) you will get lots of strange looks as you pull out your floral journal from your backpack. Especially if you happen to be wearing a floral blouse. So much for blending in... Any thoughts on metro activities would be much appreciated.

Wow this was a long one. Lo siento. Have the best day!

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

If you're looking for information about our lives, this post isn't for you...

So, all day today I kept thinking of things I wanted to blog about, but now that I'm blogging, I can't remember! For now I'll just give you some more pictures from the weekend, and maybe it will all come back to me later...

First, here's us at the winery on Friday. I realized that we barely have any pictures of the two of us on here...

This is a sign we saw in Isla Negra. We have no clue what it means, except maybe: "Woman in a large skirt, playing the guitar." Or "Man on a pumpkin, playing the guitar."
What? Do we look like tourists or something?
We loooove juice! My Chilean family makes this stuff for me all the time-- so great!
 Another picture of the beautiful Isla Negra! We're so excited to go back to the beach when it's actually warm... it's less than two hours and only about 7 dollars each way.

Ok that's all for now. I'll come back when I have more legit things to say... Love to North America from South America!

Monday, August 9, 2010

Time for some introductions

Alright, United States. It's time for some introductions. There are some things about Chile everyone must know.

Introduction número uno: MARISCOS (seafood)

Seafood is eaten quite a bit around here (or at least in my family). Madeline has left my house on one or two occasions with a stomach full of fried fish or some questionable sea creature that is "slurped," not eaten.

Introduction número one-and-a-half: Chile uses military time, as displayed on my mom's watch.
Introduction número dos: Chileans like wine. So much so that they make a lot of it.

Madeline and I decided we'd make a journey with the (still) delightful Brazilians to a winery, or bodega, called Concha y Toro about an hour outside the city this past Friday (yeahhh we don't have class Friday!). The vineyard was an oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.

El Casillero del Diablo was a rather frightening wine-cellar-pseudo-catacomb...

Introduction número tres: United States, meet the alfajor.

Aflajors (pronounced alpha-whore) are delicious desserts made of layers of manjar (dulce de leche, or carmel) and shortbread-esque cookies. They're available covered in chocolate, or sometimes sprinkled with coconut shreds or powdered sugar.


Introduction número cuatro: One can travel from Santiago (which sits on the eastern-most edge of the country) to the coast (the western-most edge of the country ... duh) in LESS THAN AN HOUR-AND-A-HALF.

To test out this truth, Madeline, Allison + two others (named Mary and Erica) boarded a bus Saturday morning to head to Isla Negra, where is situated yet another one of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda's houses. 
 
Yep, there's Pablo. Just watchin' the Pacific Ocean.

Introdution número cinco: Juice here is just about as natural as it gets. 

Recipe for the delicious kiwi juice below: kiwis + water + blender. Presto.


Introduction número seis: Allison Buterbaugh, fellow Vandy girl, is quite charming. 

You should get to know her.
 

Introduction número siete: Stray dogs are a problem in Chile. Especially when you're trying to eat empanadas in peace.

Madeline obviously thinks dogs are pretty funny.
 

More to come on beginning-of-the-school-year fun! Adiós!

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Is this real life?

So I got home from class today, and my Chilean family was about to walk out the door for a doctor's appointment (at 8pm? Sketch.), so I have the house all to myself for a few hours! They felt bad for abandoning me, but I assured them that the peace and quiet would be good for writing my essays. Have I written those essays? Nope. But I got to Skype with my real familia at the beach (I'm so thankful that we're in the same time zone!), and now I should probably blog, right?

As Abby said, we've officially started our real classes, at the real Chilean universities, with real Chileans! This week has been a little hectic with finalizing our schedules and figuring out how to navigate to and from class, but starting next week, we'll have sort of "normal" routines. It's crazy that we've been here for over three weeks, but the real semester is just now beginning. Things are starting to feel so familiar. For example, this is what I eat for breakfast every single day:

(Please note the avocado, questionable milk-in-a-box, lunch for the day, and Christmas placemat.)

I love that we're getting used living here. I thought it would take way longer for it to settle down and feel so comfortable to be living in Chile with a strange family, but I realized the other day that so much of the uncertainty from the first few days is gone! And we're just living normal life down here. Crazy. We just do things like go to class, browse discounted DVDs at Blockbuster, and watch the Bachelorette... but we're doing it all in Chile. So surreal!

 It's really fun to be at the university-- it feels so much like Vanderbilt in some ways, but it's also so different. Abby and I are taking three classes together (right, Ab?), and we have some really wonderful professors and super interesting classes. And we're taking them right along with the Chilean students! It takes me over an hour to get from my house to campus (depending on whether or not the bus is cooperating), but that's all part of adjusting to life here. I haven't lived more than 5 minutes away from my school since third grade! Here's a picture we took on campus one day:


I don't think I'll ever get over being AMAZED by the Andes. It's so hard to capture how big they are in pictures, but just trust us. It's unbelievable! This morning, I was a littttttle grumpy about leaving my house at 7:15 to get to class on time, but as soon as I walked out the door, I saw this:


It's hard to see, but it was a beauuutiful sunrise coming up over the Andes. What an incredible opportunity we have to be surrounded by this every day! (I was definitely getting some judgmental looks from the early-morning Chileans at the bus stop for taking pictures.)

Ok, I think I might actually go write those essays... Sorry this wasn't too informative. We're planning an exciting day on Saturday, so one of us will definitely fill you in about that! And more to come about college life... get ready to hear some complaints about the world of la fotocopiadora...

Oh- one last thing: on Tuesday, Abby, Allison, and I explored a mall near campus, and great news! We found more fro-yo (What? Do we talk about food too much or something?)!


Monday, August 2, 2010

goofiness

It has been about a week since our last blog post, and much has happened since. Madeline and I finished our Chile Contemporáneo class, visited Villa Grimaldi (a concentration camp of sorts during Pinochet's dictatorship), spent a lovely afternoon together running around the neighborhood and eating fried fish, and started real class at two of Chile's universities: la Universidad de Chile y Pontífica Universidad Católica de Chile.

But I think I will use this post to show you just how goofy my family is.

To preface, I have some Brazilian cousins in town. Two delightful Brazilian cousins: Gabriela, 23, and Lucas, 17. Both are from São Paulo, and they were welcomed last week by Mamá's famous pineapple-cream
torta (cake) and some 25 Chilean relatives who gathered at my house to celebrate their arrival. Also welcoming them was a Chilean delicacy called mote con huesillos, or dried peaches and a corn-like substance in juice (looks like brain, tastes like heaven). They've been teaching me some Portuguese, sharing some Brazilian music (check out Brazil's version of Colbie Caillat here. Or Damien Rice here. I'm un poquito enamored), and really just filling my life with laughter and fun. They've already invited me to Brazil ... and, coincidentally, Vanderbilt's spring break corresponds with Carnaval. Hmmm.



Anyways, I don't know if it's the Brazilians who are bringing out the goofiness, but things have been particularly hysterical around here recently. Allow me to explain.

Friday night, the goofiness came out in the form of a costume party. After dinner, Papá pulled out his costume trunk (yep, half of his little closet is reserved especially for costumes), replete with wigs and, surprisingly, Muslim head-gear. I don't know.




During lunch on Saturday we had our first singing outbreak. Mary Poppins "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious" (Whoa! I spelled that right first try!) was the song of choice. A video appears below.



Tonight, we had our second outbreak, of a different kind. Animal noises.

Drat. That video isn't uploading. You'll just have to hold your horses and wait til next time for that one.

:). I hope y'all like my family as much as I do.

Ok. I must go finalize my course schedule for tomorrow. But hope everyone's August is off to a great start! Chau!